POINTS OF INTEREST
Housed in a gargantuan neo-Gothic building dating from 1889, the Swiss National Museum owns an enormous collection of objects dating from the Stone Age to modern times. There are costumes, furniture, early watches, and a great deal of military history, including thousands of toy soldiers reenacting famous battles. In the hall of arms there's a splendid mural, painted by the late-19th-century Bernese artist Ferdinand Hodler, called The Retreat of the Swiss Confederates at Marignano. The work depicts a defeat in 1515 by the French.